In 1981 I spent around 4 weeks in the south of France in a little village called Siran in the Herault/Languedoc region employed by a French farmer in the annual grape harvest, otherwise known as the Vendage. I had originally gone to France for a couple of weeks hitch hiking and exploring. Starting in Belfast on a cheap Ulsterbus ticket to London and then onward by bus or train (dont remember which) to catch the ferry to France.
The tent we had was akin to a Wendy house and not much use if the weather had been anything less than idyllic. This was France in September. A sheet over a pole was sufficient for the sake of modesty and to keep off the dew but not really necessary. The journey south is for the most part forgotten other than a recollection of wandering around Bordeaux looking for the British Embassy although I can’t remember for what reason, and finishing that day being dropped off by a family of 5 with big dog (who had insisted on squeezing us in complete with rucksacks). The end of their benevolence came in what seemed to be the middle of nowhere surrounded in forest but they pointed down the road indicating the general direction of civilisation.
It was late in the day and wasn’t far to walk before a sign for camping appeared at the roadside and another for a town ahead. The town seemed to be calling with the hope of a cheap room in a hostel and something to eat. Another mile or so along the road was Pissos. Not so much a town as a crossroads with a small hotel and a peppering of houses. In the toss up between the camp site and the hotel, the hotel won regardless of the toss. It was an old family run place with the sort of ancient character in the mortar that makes it a more desirable place to stay than any 5 star luxury block of concrete. The bedroom had a huge mural of autumn trees on one wall with the evening sun shining in on it from an open window that overlooked the hotel front. Dinner was a simple but tasty potatoes, brocolli and beef and what seemed to be an endless carafe of house wine. Just one night there but I remember it while other more recent places have long since escaped me.
I seem to remember catching a train next day to Narbonne. From there by chance to a camp site in Lezignan Corbiere to pitch the Wendy house and consume the local beverages in slow drafts until the sun disappeared. It was here, that a very hoity toity Englishman called Johnathan persuaded us to join a team of workers harvesting grapes.
Next day we went with him to meet up with some of his friends who were working for other farmers in the same village. The venue they chose to meet in was Cafe Planner in Olonzac. It was owned by two old dears who took eons to serve drinks forgetting almost mid pour what they were supposed to be doing. They reminded me of Hinge and Bracket. The cafe hadn’t been changed in years. It was full of old photos and bits and pieces of stuff sitting around that people had left behind. I bought a radio and left the box on a shelf - sure enough it was still there when I revisited the following year! I doubt if the cafe is still there. It was a nicely spent afternoon and felt good to give some trade to the underdog while bypassing the new flashing neon cafe around the corner. We very happily staggered the 3 miles or so from Olonzac to Siran to become grape pickers!
With a free gite to stay in for the duration and a pay packet at the end of each week. It seemed too good to be true. Also thrown in for good measure was a daily allowance of 2 litres of wine per person. If I didn’t want the wine I would get paid for whatever I didn’t take at a meagre rate barely worth quibbling over. It wasn’t good wine… too new and while the rest of my household dutifully drank their 2 litre quota. I took the meagre sum and spent it in the village cafe on Ricard.
The gite was up an old narrow street. It had three bedrooms, a kitchen, a locked dining room with all the better furniture stored inside, a cellar strewn with old vines for the fire and a small enclosed courtyard accessible through the dining room and so inaccessible to us unless by climbing through the bathroom window. My bedroom had a view over the courtyard and terraces of roof tiles. Sharing this small house was the out of place Englishman, myself, my companion and two Australians one of who’s idea of putting on a clean shirt was to turn the one worn the day before inside out. As a team we worked well so long as nobody had had too much to drink the night before.
Harvesting was done with secateurs setting the bunches of grapes into a bucket while one of the team would circulate with a huge hopper on their back to collect the grapes from the buckets and empty them into a tractor trailer. Lanky Johnathan was the hopper man. It was probably easier on him than stooping over vines all day. The work was back breaking because of the height of the fruit. Some of the surrounding vineyards had brought in machines to harvest but had to remove every other row of vines to facilitate. Monsieur Rancoule was not about to do the same. He was in his mid to late 50’s and a jolly character to work for. I was a little sad to find that by the following June when I returned to Siran for a few days, he had suffered a stroke and couldn’t remember ever having seen us before.

My time working in those vineyards and visiting the area made Margaret Loxton’s set of 4 prints of ‘Burgundy Vineyards’ irresistible 10 years on. Her portrayal of burly agricultural characters reminded me of M. Rancoule and the opportunity he provided for me to experience working the vendage and earn enough money to not go home, but onward to Greece.